All The Food That's Fit To Eat

Monthly Archives: February 2012

When I visited the Tarlabaşı market, I bumped shoulders with loose-toothed locals, families both young and old, young children running around wild, yet seemingly always under the gaze of their mother, and other Erasmus students trying to snatch up a bargain. In a word, it is a microchasm of the Istanbul I have come to experience in the three and a half weeks I’ve been here.

Only ten or so minutes from the hustle and bustle of Taksim square, the decidedly grittier Tarlabaşı is filled with hills; vendors flanking both sides of the sloping, broken sidewalks. At orientation, students were warned to not walk alone to Dolapdere Campus. Guess where Dolapdere is? Yep, right near the market.

But on Sundays, the area that has a notorious reputation for drugs and crime transforms to a bustling street market. Young and old alike manuever throughout the throngs of people to score the best bargain on produce, fish, cheese, spices, clothing, housewares and anything one could possibly want. I would call it one-stop-shopping, but that would not do justice to the seemingly hundreds for individual vendors, calling out in their unique chants for the customers to visit his or her stall, rather than the neighbors. It’s commotion, it’s hectic, but at the same time, perfectly peaceful.

 

Continue reading


As I carried my ingredients, teetering on the edge of my newly purchased cutting board, into the kitchen, I knew I was not at home. When I cook, I depend on having all the staples: salt, spices, bowls, knifes and everything else ready at my fingertips. I knew where they were and most importantly, I knew they were not in short supply.
On each floor in the six-floor dormitory, there are two two-burner hot plates, a microwave and a toaster oven that fits a loaf of crusty Italian garlic bread. Sort of.

Open flames? Nope. Precise control over temperature? You have to be kidding me. I always knew there was a reason why I hate cooking rice on an electric stove. Even worse, an electric hot plate that may heat the metal disk to an unknown temperature and when I turn the knob down to cook the rice on low, possibly may decrease the temperature, though I really can’t be sure.

But I can adapt to imprecise cooking times. One of the third floor hot plates is broken, but that didn’t deter me too much. The lack of counter space is the true nuisance here. Worst of all, there is absolutely nothing I can do about it. Rather than working on an even-leveled counter, I balance my cutting board on the slightly-warped counter, or have to push the plastic box of stale simits aside  to chop a tomato. (Tip: dip your  simit in a glass of unsweetened tea and the inside will turn delectably soft while the outside will remain characteristically chewy. There will be sesame seeds floating in your tea, but it’s a small price to pay for breakfast-on-the-go perfection.

So while the siren song of the 2TL  Tavuk Döner Kebap from Joy may be strong on most nights, a Sunday visit to the Tarlabaşi market was all the inspiration I needed to prepare a feast; not single-handedly of course. After walking by an open-air fish market with even the most luxurious looking tuna steaks costing only 15TL for a kilo, I knew a delicious bargain was in hand.

Rather than the deep magenta tuna, I opted for small, slightly oily white fish. And at only 5TL (or roughly $2.80USD) for a whole kilo (that’s 2.2 pounds, folks), I’ll come back for seconds. Of course, I should have known that the fish would not be gutted, cleaned; anything.  Fortunately, I had bought a new knife at the market, so I accepted the challenge. Properly cleaning all that fish takes time, so thankfully I was helped out by my lovely friend Ida and together all the fins were cut off, untasty guts and back bones removed and stray scale carefully washed away. She also made a killer strawberry and walnut salad that was seriously one of the best I’ve had in a while, but more on that later.

Even the olive oil came from the street market. It’s like nothing I’ve seen back home

Continue reading


In a city where the average summer temperature peaks over 80 degrees, unctuously rich hot chocolate may not be the first thing one thinks of when traveling in Istanbul. But on a night like tonight, when rain kept the temperature to the Upstate New York standard I am all too familiar with, it was a natural choice.

Swiss Miss may warm the stomach, but sıcak çikolatalar  warms the heart. There are no little sugary marshmallows floating on the top, but for what it lacks in childhood tradition, it more than makes up for in variety and sheer deliciousness.

The small handle almost forces you to be dainty

Continue reading


This update is far overdue, but after an 11 hour flight, a seven hour time zone difference and a hell of a time trying to figure out the language, I have arrived in Istanbul. It’s been fairly cloudy since I’ve arrived; a problem for all the photos I’ve been meaning to take. And for a view that faces straight over the Bosphorus Strait, from one continent to another, it would be a shame to not share it. It’s coming soon, I swear.

But enough about this 13 million strong, ancient metropolis. Let’s talk about grain. Well damn, that sounds boring, but I swear it’s not. In my quest to eat well for only a lira and a few Kuruş, I brilliantly stumbled upon the greatness of bulgar. I was skeptical at first: the name is just ugly. Bulgar. But for 1.45 TL for a whole kilo, it seemed like the economical–and potentially delicious–choice. Continue reading



Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 738 other followers

%d bloggers like this: